European Vacation 2005

Not Quite What I Expected

I have to admit, Kiev and Ukraine are not at all what I expected. Somehow I envisioned a poor country with a relatively run down capital. I was thinking a poor St. Petersburg. Wow was I wrong.

Soviets Spent Some Cash
While St. Petersburg was left to rot after World War II, the Communists invested heavily in Kiev's infrastructure. The city center has an extensive underground, and the buildings are beautiful and grand in a European sense. After the Nazis were defeated, the Soviets repaired existing structures and built massive and impressive structures downtown. Of course they could not help themselves - the suburbs have the same cookie-cutter run-down apartments I have found all over this part of the world.

Didn't We Win the Cold War?
Like the U.S. and most of Europe, major cities in Russia and Ukraine celebrate winning World War II. In the Former Soviet Union they celebrate on May 9. Last year I watched some of the parade in St. Pete. This year I arrived in Kiev on the 9th, and after getting somewhat settled into my new apartment, I headed for Krishatik, the main street downtown.

Its an incredible site. These old soldiers march down the boulevard; the're about my grandparents' age, and they are in full dress uniform with enough medals on their chest to tip them over. And the public here line the street. They run up to them and give them flowers to honor them. Its really touching. Regardless of Stalin and the Soviets, these guys fought against Hitler just like our soldiers did.

Of course all the soldiers are wearing old Soviet insignia, and of course the vehicles have the familiar hammer & scicle. That was the uniform they wore during their battle with the Fascists, but the parade turned a little weird for me. Along with the normal procession of soldiers and bands, today's Communist Party marched together with some of the old soldiers.

In front of this group was a large section of people in civilian clothes - they all held up signs with pictures of Stalin - there had to be 100 signs. I wonder if they know he murdered 17 million russian people. Behind the marching soldiers was a propaganda van with loudspeakers. Who knows what he was saying.

It's Not Over
Now there is no law against drinking beer in public either in Russia or Ukraine. Nor is there a minimum drinking age for beer (I'm not sure about other alcoholic beverages). So I'm never surprised to see high school and college age people walking around with beer at all hours. But this is ridiculous. After the parade the main street, Kreshatik, was full of drunk people of all ages (not I). The street was awash with broke glass and bottles, and there were a fair number of fights. Don't you just love Eastern Europe. A night would never be complete without at least one stumbling drunk zig-zagging down the sidewalk.

Look at Me - I'm a Tourist
Having never been to Kiev, I had to put on my tourist hat. Of course it was raining off and on my first day here, but I dutifully strapped on my photo backpack and wandered around the city. Using a combination of travel books and maps I managed to find the most beautiful cathedrals. Of course shooting them was challenging, since it was overcast & raining the whole morning. But luckily the weather improved in the afternoon.

The second day was beautiful all morning. So I rushed back to most of the sites I already visited, so I could reshoot with a blue sky. I will share more photos once I get home.


Where are the Great Clubs ?
I am a bit plugged I in St. Pete, but here I am completely lost. Rostov, the guy from whom I rented my apartment, recommended I look at a website www.whatson-kiev.com to see what is fun; so Tuesday I went to Artclub 44. There was a rock'n'roll band playing, and the croud was mildly enthusiastic. I managed to hang out until 1 or so.

On Wednesday, I found a little bar - it was ok as well, but a few locals there wrote out a list of places to check out. So tonight I will be looking.

American Food
Of course no city would be complete without its own McDonalds. But everyone knows what that is, and you'd be surprised how busy a McDonalds is in Eastern Europe. Somehow I think the name of TGI Fridays is completely lost on Ukrainians. Maybe it would be better if they just translated the name into Friday in Ukrainian.

Damn Weather
While you all are suffering with 70 or 80 degree weather, I'm basking in overcast and 45 degree perfection. It suits me right coming here in May. I've basically seen all the tourist sites, minus the boring museums, so today is a rest day. If we get a day of clear skies, I will run back to a few places I couldn't shoot yesterday.

Appreciate What You Have
A side benefit to traveling is that you learn to appreciate the United States. Something so simple as a public toilet can instantly make someone a patriot. This is a public toilet - not a urinal. Anyone care to squat?

I do have a pretty cool apartment. I'll get you photos before I go to Greece. Later!!

posted by Adam Stern @ 4:30 PM